KSU: Study Butte, Tx - 7:30 AM Sunday 4/5/2009
This morning marked the return ride back to San Antonio. I generally consider this the end of the trip, since all that is left is to grind away the miles on I-10 back to San Antonio. The morning started off not so great for me. After getting ready early, placing my room key in the drop box and making the short ride from Terlingua to Study Butte for breakfast, I discovered I had left my phone charger in the hotel room. So back I went, dug my key out of the drop box and retrieved my charger. I hate rushing to get ready. I always feel I've forgotten something, left a saddle bag open or done something really stupid like forgotten to fasten my helmet, put on my gloves or secure something so it goes flying off the bike, all of which I managed to do during this trip
As we started our slow climb north to Alpine the temperature began to drop quickly. I was dressed for a ride back in the 70's, the temp was on its way to the high 40's. To take my mind off how cold I was, I began to reflect on the trip.
A short five days ago, we had left San Antonio with 12 bikes and two chase vehicles. We had decided ahead of time to split the riders into two groups to make it easier to move through traffic. As we approached Castroville, I contacted Mike and Darcy on the radio and let them know we were close. Darcy fell in behind the last rider however, Mike got caught in traffic so we pulled over and let the lead group move ahead as Mike worked his way closer. They moved to about 5 miles ahead when we got back on the road; easily within radio range. BTW - those not on the radio, missed a lot of ride coordination throughout the week between Charles, Daryl, Mike and I. By the end of the trip, we had developed a fairly smooth communication process for keeping the group together.
Our official first stop was at the Pecos River and the Judge Roy Bean compound. It was our first photo opp and a chance for everyone to associate motorcycle with faces. We had a few first time VMR riders with us. Darcy had been on some charity rides with us before but this was her first time out of town on her new bike. Russell, Dean and Shirley were also making their first long trip with the group and Charles, Keith and Jean had never ridden to Big Bend before. The rest of us were eager to repeat our trip from last year.
The towns got smaller and seemed to go by quicker as we headed to Ft. Davis for our first of two nights there. We checked into the Stone Village Tourist Resort. It's a small and quaint hotel and our 11 room reservation assured that we "owned the place". The owner was very accommodating to a group our size and even hung around the campfire that night to trade stories. It was here we also met up with our Dallas riders; Kerry, Theresa, Jeff and Mike. We also spent the evening with the only other guests at the hotel; a couple of guys who train drug dogs, who joined us by the fire. They demonstrated how the dogs worked which always seemed to involve Jeff as the "suspect". Hummmm.
Thursday morning we spent riding the Ft. Davis loop, visiting the Mc Donald's Observatory, lunching at Alice's Restaurant in Marfa and looking for stuff on the side of the road that fell off Seymour's bike. The afternoon was free time. Most of us headed for a tour and a glimpse into the lives of the Buffalo Soldiers at Ft. Davis National Park. Others went back to the hotel to help make repairs to Seymour's wiring after he and Nichole hit a particularly hard bump. Later that evening we strolled down to the Wagon Wheel BBQ joint and were surprised to see they had a large table all set up for our group. We sat down and ordered only to find out the table reservations had been made by a touring Porsche owner's group who now had to sit out on the patio. Perhaps I was hungry, perhaps it was sampling the three homemade sauces or perhaps it was that we had their tables, but that was some of the best BBQ I've ever had.
Friday, we made our way down to Big Bend and the El Dorado hotel in the Ghost town of Terlingua. Once again we took over the hotel with the exception of a couple of families. That afternoon we rode into the park and paused by the entrance sign for our second photo opp. Big Bend is such a unique area to ride. Its isolation, winding roads and wide open landscape make seeing the park by motorcycle that much more enjoyable. Each turn greets you with another palette of colors and unique landscapes. Although it's a desert area, recent rains caused much of the park to be in bloom adding more to the color. We rode single file through canyons and passes down to the Rio Grande Village. We took the time to hike some of the trails which lead down to the sandy beaches of the Rio Grande River. On the way out, we took a side trip up to the Chisos Mountain Lodge. This road is cut into the side of the mountain and sports many tight switch backs combined with steep uphill climbs. While entertaining for the driver, some of the passengers found the trip to be more exciting than they would like. We exited the park under a setting sun which made the colors even more vibrant.
I was up at sunrise on Saturday. Not that we had an early take off, in fact some of the riders had extended last night into the early hours, but this was the day we ride River Road and is the main reason I make the trip to Big Bend. I walked outside to see Charles taking pictures of the sunrise and Daryl walking back from breakfast. We wandered up the road for breakfast at the small diner. Like many of the businesses in this area, time is relative and in the case of this diner, so were the health codes. But we're bikers, right? Who cares if there's a cat wandering around the kitchen and the guy making your breakfast is smoking a pipe overflowing with ashes. It's part of the local flavor.
River Road follows the Rio Grande from Lajitas to Presidio. It is 40 miles of twists, turns, ups and downs through landscapes that vary from rugged desert to flat wetlands. You don't know whether to take it slow to soak in the scenery or enjoy the challenge of a road that refuses sit still. If you're lucky, you fall in behind another rider going about your speed so you can follow their line as you take the time to see the sights. Our third photo opp was on a steep uphill pull off in the rugged section of the mountains. This overlook towers above the Rio Grande and offers a spectacular view in both directions. Stopping on this severe uphill section was one thing, getting started was another. Four of us tried to explain to Shirley the combination of throttle, clutch and brake needed to get her motorcycle going uphill. We all ran beside her, barking orders of what we thought she needed to do next. On the third try, she was off and running and we all scrambled to our bikes to keep up with her. By the time we all regrouped in Presidio, it was lunchtime and it was hot. We took refuge in a Mexican restaurant and downed gallons of iced tea. The ride back on River Road was just as enjoyable but this time I pushed the bike a bit. I was following Shirley and was amazed how I was not catching up to her even though I felt I was riding faster. I guess she had the same idea. We took a short break at a roadside park to rest in the shade. This was our fourth day on the bikes and I think everyone needed a little separation from their saddle. That afternoon, we made our final trip into the park. We took Boquillas Canyon Road into the eastern part of Big Bend, down to the Canyon trail. Here we hiked back into the canyon along the Rio Grande for more picture taking. Daryl, Jeff and I pushed on to the end of the trail. We looked over to the Mexico side and wondered how much more isolated it was than where we were. It seemed strange to look across the river and realize how different the culture and economic conditions were on the other side. We vowed to drown such philosophical thoughts in alcohol that evening.
Our tradition is to finish the trip at the Starlight Bar and Theatre. The great food, unique entertainment and opportunity to mix with the locals seemed a fitting end to the week. Charles and I treated ourselves to steaks as we watched in amazement as Charlie and Jean together tackled the Diablo burger. This heart stopper starts with a half pound of beef, adds cheese and bacon slices. As if that's not enough, they put a couple of fried eggs on top. We were amazed because Charlie wasn't able to finish his half. This was a first! We had yet to encounter a menu item that was a match for Charlie's high metabolism.
The cold seems to snap my mind back on the road to Alpine. The mileage marker says 20 more miles. I convinced myself I can hold back the cold another 20 minutes. A large mule deer breaks from the side of the road and passes right behind my bike. I'm too cold to react (a good thing). Up ahead, I see Keith on the side of the road. I don't stop because I know he's just getting out another layer of warm clothes to put on (smart guy). I call Daryl on the radio behind me to confirm that is what Keith is doing. Charles calls me on the radio up ahead to say they've stopped at a gas station just inside town. We're all shivering when we get off the bikes and cuddle hot cups of coffee at the station. Daryl tells us the temperature has dropped 20 degrees in the last 50 miles. Russell's face is as red as an apple. Dean is trying to wiggle his way into another layer of coveralls. I dream of the electric vest hanging in my closet at home.
We point the bikes east toward I-10 and the long ride back to San Antonio. We say goodbye to Daryl who is extending his trip up through Arizona and New Mexico. We don't warm up until we reach Junction. Its 80 miles from San Antonio but this is our last gas stop so we say our goodbyes. From here we all will take various exits that lead to our families at home. This trip would be easy in a car, but that's part of why we ride. Anyone can do this in a car. But trips like this on a motorcycle create memories that hold you over until next year; when we'll be back to make new ones.